French

Escoffier’s Créme Princesse (公主奶油濃湯)

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Escoffier’s Créme Princesse (公主奶油濃湯)

5 from 1 vote
Recipe by Mitch Course: SoupCuisine: FrenchDifficulty: Hard
Servings

2

servings
Prep time

20

minutes
Cooking time

45

minutes
Total time

1

hour 

5

minutes

I’ve recently started reading Escoffier’s classic French cookbook, Le Guide Culinaire, and picked a random recipe to start this journey into French cuisine. What else is there to do in quarantine? I decided to pick from the soup section because “how hard could that be?” Oof.

One of the ingredients requires simmering for 2+ days, white bouillon (a.k.a. white consommé). As we live a quarantine life, Kuan didn’t want the house smelling of beef soup for that long. I substituted white bouillon with vegetable bouillon cube reconstituted with the appropriate amount of water; I will never undo the shame I brought to Escoffier by using a vegetable bouillon cube :p. However, it does save substantial time. The substitution won’t allow you to get to that gelatinous depth common to white bouillon, but it will match the flavor profile and coloring. Note: A beef bouillon cube will make the soup’s color too dark.

I wasn’t able to find much information on this recipe in the English- or French-speaking world. I did come across this older recipe for Creme Princesse used in Victorian times from Tames Allan’s Living History Lectures, but nothing else. If you find any other sources for this recipe, please share them in the comments section below.

Ingredients

  • White Bouillon
  • 4 cups white bouillon (used for sub-recipes below)

  • Créme de Volaille
  • 3 cups Béchamel sauce

  • 1.5 cups ground chicken

  • 1.5 cups white bouillon

  • Créme de Riz
  • 40 g rice flour

  • 5/8 cup whole milk

  • 2.5 cups white bouillon

  • Garnish
  • 2 chicken drumsticks

  • salt

  • white pepper

  • 2 chives

  • Créme Princesse
  • 3 cups Créme de Volaille

  • 3 cups Créme de Riz

  • 1.5 cups Cream

Directions

  • Chicken Drumsticks
  • Preheat oven to 425 °F. Season drumsticks with pinches of pepper and salt. Lightly oil a roasting pan and place chicken in the oven for 25 minutes. Flip chicken over and cook for additional 10 minutes.
  • White Bouillon
  • Prepare 4 cups of white bouillon, using any method you prefer; I used vegetable bouillon cubes for this recipe. Bring to a boil.
  • Créme de Volaille
  • Place ground chicken in cheese cloth, and sting it closed. Add it to the boiling white bouillon, and cook for 10 minutes.
  • Puree the cooked chicken with 1.5 cups of white bouillon. Save the excess white bouillon for the Créme de Riz.
  • Add the pureed chicken in white bouillon to warmed Béchamel sauce. I’ve linked a video on making the Béchamel sauce below, it follows Escoffier’s recipe exactly; no shortcuts for this one. I made the Béchamel sauce the day before. Supposedly, you can find Béchamel sauce in grocery stores, but I’ve never seen it.
  • Allow the Créme de Volaille to simmer ever so gently while you prepare the Créme de Riz. Stir occasionally to avoid clumps.
  • Créme de Riz
  • Dilute rice flour in cold whole milk, whisk well. Add rice-milk to 2 1/2 cups of boiling white bouillon made from earlier above.
  • Allow to cook for 25 minutes.
  • Créme Princesse
  • Mix equal quantities of Créme de Volaille (~3 cups) and Créme de Riz (~3 cups), and bring to simmer.
  • Add cream to soup and mix thoroughly, be careful to keep the mixture from boiling.
  • Once heated through, plate and begin garnishing.

Recipe Video

Notes

  • 1.) Escoffier’s classic recipe uses chicken breast. However, no one in the family likes chicken breast, so we swapped it for roasted chicken drumsticks.
  • 2.) Plunches of chervil were used as a garnish in Escoffier’s classic recipe instead of the chives used here. I’m growing chervil in our Aerogarden, so I’ll be ready next time it comes up.
  • 3.) Lastly, asparagus tips were also served as part of the soup traditionally. But I forgot to include it when I made this meal. This recipe has a lot of moving parts, and this one slipped through the cracks.
 

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